Leaving the tourist shopping centre of Hoi-An behind, we’ve travelled further south by air to the place formerly known as Saigon, ex-southern capital of Vietnam and now referred to by many as Ho Chi Minh City.  We arrived here two days ago, and have been staying at the An An Hotel 2, a run of the mill but perfectly serviceable hotel in District 1. It’s not the plushest of areas, but there’s plenty to get excited about after the sun (and temperature) goes down.

We spent most of the first day in our usual pattern of settling in, wandering around and taking in the sights. Roaming through busy streets and tranquil parks, we found ourselves at Reunification Palace, a huge, gleaming-white building set in beautifully kept grounds, topped off with an enormous fountain. Proudly on display, military hardware used to “liberate” the place at the end of the American war and the fall of Saigon also adorned the lawns, providing a talking point for passing tourists.

It seemed as though we’d picked the wrong day to visit, as apart from the ground floor, the entire place was off-limits; it seemed a bit odd that somewhere so big had so little to see, but with the local dignitaries, decorated military and their entourage showing up it became obvious why. In the 38 degree heat, the only sensible thing to do was to find ice-cream before heading back to the air-conditioned refuge of our hotel room…

We headed out again after dark, by which time the place had completely transformed, going from a fairly laid-back vibe during the day to one that’s buzzing with life. The buildings were lit by neon signs, and bars and shops that were mostly empty during the day were now teeming with tourists.

We ate dinner at Pao (seemingly one of the only Vietnamese restaurants on our street), after which we took a roam around the neighbouring area. Away from all the tourist traps and much like the other cities we’ve visited in Vietnam was a familiar scene; locals sitting in groups on the pavements, eating, talking and playing board games together - it seems as though community spirit is alive and well in Saigon, which couldn’t help but make me feel as though we’ve lost something in our own culture.