We’ve been in Siem Reap for the past few days, temple-hopping around the wide-spread and magnificent ancient ruins of Angkor. We arrived here three days ago, and we’ve been so busy going from one place to the next that there literally hasn’t been much time to stop and take a breather.

We’re staying at the (outwardly) posh Shinta Mani hotel, one of the many boutique hotels catering for the daily mass deluge of tourists here. It’s one of those places that advertises premium quality, and despite offering that on the surface, it always (almost intangibly) falls a little short in the detail. Thankfully, the rooms are spacious and very comfortable, and it does give back to the community by giving training and work to the young locals.

Siem Reap itself is not exactly what I was expecting either (although in retrospect, I probably should have known better). It’s one of those places that’s adapted quickly to the ever-increasing tourist trade, catering for those coming to see the world famous archaeological sites. In fact, about 90% of the surrounding area here is dedicated to tourist and backpacker accommodation and entertainment - filled with quality hotels, hostels, tourist shops and attractions.

The hassle factor here is extremely high, and definitely not for the light hearted. Adults use their children to prey on unsuspecting tourists or tour groups, and are usually found in small packs at restaurants and ruin sites. And to say they are persistent is an understatement - after they have swarmed on you, they will follow you forever and you have to have a cast iron resolve to be able to shake them off. Less experienced travellers will have a hard time saying “no” and will probably end up paying excess baggage on the extra multiple suitcases worth of “souvenirs” they bought. *

The primary mode of transport here is the Tuk Tuk - though not the three-wheeler mini trike you get in India and Sri Lanka. The Cambodian version is a wooden passenger trailer strapped to the seat of a motorcycle. Holding up to four people, it can be a bit of a hairy experience, especially going over speed bumps. Tuk Tuk drivers also seem to be extremely tired people - when not ferrying tourists around, you can often see them parked side by side with the driver often fast asleep.

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**After re-reading this, I feel I should really put this into context. People here are poor - really poor. The price of a bootleg Lonely Planet guide or pack of postcards for $1 would probably provide enough rice for a family for about a day. Still, there are only so many embroidered silk tablecloths you can buy in one trip, so the advice we’ve been following is to buy what you want and politely but firmly decline offers for stuff you don’t want or already have. As for beggars on the street - most of these are either ex-military or land mine victims. In this instance, there’s nothing wrong with dropping a few notes into a hat but a much better would be to donate some money to and organisation that can actually help them off the streets.